Sunday, November 28, 2010

Searching For The Cover of Lonely Planet in Cheongju

With South Korea and the U.S. planning a fun weekend of war games, we decided it would be a good weekend to get the hell out of central Seoul. But what to do? As it gets colder there's less and less incentive to hike around and sightsee while our bodies freeze in the elements. We decided to give it a go anyway and we took the cover of our Lonely Planet as inspiration. "Let's find the cover," we thought. So we headed toward Cheongju and Songnisan National Park.

Cheongju was only an hour and a half from Seoul, so though it was nice to get out of the city, it was also nice to not endure a long bus ride like we did on our trip to Gyeongju last month. After we got off the bus in Cheongju it looked like we'd been let off into some sort of royal palace, because most of the love motels (and there are probably over 50) were shaped like castles. We chose one that we understood to be called the "Penis Motel" in Hangul, but the English on the towels revealed it to actually be the "Venus Motel".

The room was pretty good for 50,000 Won. There was a computer that worked with the big flatscreen TV, a super comfy bed and a huge bathtub. We had to change rooms because our computer's speakers were messed up... and trust me, this was a long ordeal, but we liked the place enough to stay there both nights of our trip. It was the bed that made it for us. So comfy!

Our NOT Penis Motel was conveniently located across from the Don't Tell Mama Nightclub. Awesome name, but Mama knows.

A few minutes walk away from the hotel, and right outside the bus terminal was the Dream Plus Department Store. As you can see from the above photo, this dream had seen better days. We'd only gone there Saturday morning to get some lunch at the food court and we had a great meal at an Italian restaurant that only seemed to serve Korean food. Mel had a bibimbap and I had the ddok baegi bulgogi- a nice warm soup to fight the cold rainy day outside. We'd planned to spend Saturday at Songnisan National Park, but like I said, it was pouring rain and cold so we decided to go on Sunday instead. We were off in search of something to do.

In Korea, I find that you can tell what kind of town you're in based on the number of BYCs that you see. BYC is like the lowest of the low, crappiest fashion retailer in Korea. They seem to prosper best in ajumma and ajoshi, dinky, boring little places. Not that Cheongju is all that bad but... we did see 5 BYCs in one day. And Mel did comment that she was bored pretty often.

At the G20 conference earlier in the month, one of Korea's top priorities was to speak with France about returning one of it's national treasures called Jikji. It is the oldest metal-printed book ever made, and it was made in Cheongju. There's a claim to fame for ya. For the record, France is returning the book on a "permanent loan" basis.

We asked a taxi driver to take us to Jungmun, which Lonely Planet calls an "entertainment district" near a university. There was meant to be a lot of cheap shopping and food. There definitely was a lot of cheap food and night clubs, but we'd already eaten and it was a wee early for a bender. We walked around a bit, certain that we'd eventually find the shops that our guide book had mentioned. There were no shops but there was an ajumma with her pants pulled down, full-on peeing on the side of the main road. I looked around and saw so very many buildings that would have had public bathrooms for her to use. It was very strange. We carried on and found a street full of old broken mirrors and shelves, and at least there were no old ladies pissing, so we walked up there (as you do).

The street led to a small covered market. There were several in Cheongju, and most contained at least one BYC outlet.

Ever wonder what your sea monkeys tasted like? You can eat them by the shovel-full at this market.

We were cold and ready for coffee. NOT Penis Motel had kindly left us some Maxim's to enjoy but we were ready for another fix, so we found ourselves at the lovely A Bear Fall in Coffee Cafe.

Trying to find our way out of Jungmun we spotted this abandoned building with random, dirty models of Elvis and Jack Sparrow creeping things up nicely. Who needs Vegas? C'mon Elvis, let's move the wedding to Cheongju!

We hailed another taxi and headed to the Cheongju Department Store. If you want to do a little shopping in Cheongju, this is where everything is. There's a solid 4 or 5 blocks of decent stores and it's a nice place to kill a few hours.

There were quite a few good little clothing stores (and yep, a BYC), and Mel found this sweater with a pretty blunt sense of identity.

For supper, we went back to Jungmun because I'd spotted a Mongolian restaurant that I wanted to try. Little did we realize that the restaurant was completely abandoned and possibly full of Elvis mannequins. We went for BBQ instead, and let me tell you, when the guide book said this was a cheap area for food they were right. $5/each for a massive plate full of BBQ bacon, all the sides, drinks and a naengmyeon. Ridiculous!

Sunday morning we woke up to ICE! It seems like everytime we go away for the weekend the weather changes. Sokcho was the first time I wore sleeves in 4 months, and now Cheongju was where I bought my first winter hat! I hate winter- HATE HATE HATE! But at least the ice was the thin, crunchy stuff that's fun to jump on.

We decided to buy bus tickets to Songnisan, then grab some food, use the bathroom, get a Latte and then get on the bus. Well, I bought the tickets and the cashier (who had maintained her composure throughout the entire transaction) started yelling "BALLI BALLI SHEEPCHIL ORANJOK BALI". We needed to hurry our asses to bus stop 17. It took some convincing for the driver to let Mel use the bathroom first and as soon as we were on the bus, it took off. Just under 2 hours later were were at the park. We were hungry! We walked through a virtual village of restaurants and couldn't find a thing to eat. I know a heck of a lot of Korean food names and I didn't recognize anything these folks were selling. One place sold 15,000 Won bulgogi, but wouldn't make only one portion, we HAD to order two, so we just left. I bought some chicken on a stick and Mel got a hot dog. What a sad lunch. We decided to make up for it by buying coffees. When the cashier told me the two drinks I held in my hand (and the cups were so light it felt like I'd be drinking air) were 14,000 Won we were about ready to leave Songi-effing-san park before we'd even really got there.

The trail was quite nice... but where was our Buddha from the Lonely Planet cover?

We found this amazing temple called Beopjusa, built around its amazing $4 Million giant Buddha.

It's like he wants a high five but someone left him hanging.

Amazing buildings that made it feel as if we were walking through some old postcard or famous painting.

At most of these temples they just play a CD of the monks playing their music, but at this place they had a real live guy doing his thing. And I was happy to see that they set up a heat fan next to him. It was cold!

When we didn't see our Buddha from the cover of the guide book anywhere, we thought we might be onto the right track when we saw some cool rock carvings off the main path, but nope! We never found it. And with the last bus back to Gangnam leaving any minute we had no time left to search. It was also a surprise to us that we were as low on money as were and that there were no ATMs around. Our tickets home were 30,800 Won together and we only had 32,000 Won on us! If we'd spent another minute looking for Buddha we'd have missed our bus, and if we'd bought that expensive bulgogi we couldn't have paid our way home. Food just wasn't in the cards for us today. We were hungry, but at least we were heading home. The bus was completely full and started turning people away. They weren't very happy about it either. We saw some angry ass Koreans today. We were really in the middle of nowhere, so I don't know how I would have taken the news either.

If anyone out there in the blogosphere has seen this fellow, can you let me know where he was?

We were finally rescued from our diet of chewing gum by a 15 minute bus break back in Cheongju. There was exactly one restaurant in the bus terminal, and it was called Americana Burgers. I couldn't have been happier.

And guess what was waiting for us when we got back to Gangnam a few hours later? The first snow of the season. It was pretty light, but the season has definitely changed. Makes me all the more ready for our vacation on the beach in a few short weeks. Can't wait!

Thursday, November 25, 2010

Bongeunsa

Some shots of the temple Bongeunsa taken a few weeks ago, just outside the COEX in Seoul. If you're staying in southern Seoul and you want to check out a cool temple, this is probably the easiest place to go.

As a 1,200 year old temple, Bongeunsa has a variety of large and small buildings.


Huge Buddha.


Colorful patterns on the roof inside one of the buildings.

Foreground: Old, Background: New

Admission is free. You can register to spend the night doing a temple-stay program too. As someone who likes to sleep in and is scared of vegetables, a walk around the temple grounds was more than enough for me, though.

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Cue Hysteria...


I'd very much like to see the North fall... but I'd prefer if that happened after I leave.

An e-mail received from the Canadian Embassy this evening:

Dear Canadian Citizen,

The Embassy of Canada in Seoul is aware of the current situation on Yeonpyeong Island. For the moment, Foreign Affairs and International Trade Canada has not changed the risk level for the two countries nor released any official warning. The Canadian Embassy to Korea is closely monitoring the situation and will advise the Canadian community in Korea of developments as required. As the situation evolves, you are advised to consult the Travel Report for South Korea for up-to-date information.


Canadians are encouraged to maintain their level of readiness to cope with any emergency situation. It is recommended that:


you ensure that your travel documents, including your passport, are valid;

you have registered with the online Registry of Canadians Abroad (ROCA) and/or updated your registration with your latest information.

Your Consular team
Embassy of Canada




Good thing we got our new passports last month!

Monday, November 22, 2010

Suwon Paldalmun Market

Suwon Paldalmun Market is found in the blocks surrounding Paldalmun (one of the gates of Hwaseong Fortress) in Suwon. We used to live in Suwon and would shop around Paldalmun from time to time, but more and more often we find ourselves heading back there to shop around and eat nice food. From our apartment in Gangnam it's only a 45 minute express bus ride, so it's really convenient for us to visit. I can't believe it, but we've actually found ourselves in the market for the past three weekends in a row. The shame! We should just move back!

I've never posted anything about this gem of a place, so I thought I'd share some pictures.

Clothes, shoes and bags are the main items for sale here, and there are a few square blocks of shops. What I like the most about this market is that there are hardly any brand name stores. The clothes are still pretty unique and well-made, but because you're not in Seoul and not buying brands, it's very cheap. When it got colder here a few weeks ago we headed to the market to pick up some winter clothes and our money just went so much farther than it usually does in the city. Plus, unlike most markets which sell mostly to women, about half of the shops here are for men.

Our three favorite stores: One Point, Workshop and Y-Teen Total Gift Market. All three sell both men's and women's wear so we both have something to look at.

Some of the stores have seen better days. This place should be re-named "I Was Shop".

Most of the fashions are pretty normal, but there's something for all tastes at this market.


It seems that this winter, Sleepy and Mario are the hottest things in K-fashion. I can't even tell you how many Mario-related clothing items are sold here for some reason.

Of course, I mostly just posted pics of the strangey fashion, but I also bought this suit for just over $100 at Workshop for the jacket, pants, vest and shirt.

A few weeks ago we decided to spend the night in Suwon, and we were happy to find a cheap and nice love motel just a few blocks north of the market. The BMW motel was only 30,000 Won for the night and there was a computer, big screen TV and a whirlpool in the room.

The TV even featured the popular "Ching" channel, now in HD!

The food is pretty good around the market too. There's some fast food options like Lotteria and Han's Deli, but this BBQ restaurant ("Hwa-lo-ku-ee") one block west of the market is our favorite galbi place in Korea.

The seasoned ribs are so good, but the reason this restaurant is the best is because the side dishes are awesome. You get my three galbi favorites: macaroni salad, vinegar-radish soup and the grass in brown sauce. Score! And if you go before 4pm, it's only 9,000 Won each.

I keep meaning to try this place across from the galbi restaurant- they serve pasta, noodle AND Bob. No word on if they serve Sam or Bill too.

You could always pick up a snack from these kind vegetable ajummas that sell from behind the bus stop.

If that's not to your liking there are sandrich shops around too.

And a Pizza Hut... I mean Chicken Hut. I <3 Korean libel laws.

Yep, Paldalmun Market has something from everyone. You could even buy a tank of gas off the back of this guy's pick-up. Why not come for a visit? The market is just a few minutes from Suwon Station, or take bus 3000 from Gangnam. Chances are I'll probably see you there next weekend.